Experience the tide of Melbourne trendsetting in Fitzroy, the city's bohemian-influenced but ultimately upmarket "place to be". This bustling grid of streets, just northeast of Melbourne's central business district, was the city's first suburb. Thanks to its 20th-century popularity with artists, writers and musicians, Fitzroy has developed into one of Melbourne's most culturally profound districts.

The buzzing mainline of Fitzroy is found along Brunswick Street. Try roasted coffee blends imported from around the globe and savour poached egg and chia seed breakfasts at a number of trendy cafés.

Walk along Johnston Street, which runs east to west connecting Fitzroy's main commercial districts. Along the way, browse furniture craftsmen who re-invent found material into artistic homeware pieces.

Smith Street has long been a breeding ground for Melbourne's freshest trends in music, fashion and food. Meet street musicians and browse a number of second-hand stores selling high-quality vintage outfits. For lunch, try fusion cuisines from Mexico, Morocco and Greece. Smith Street also has a thriving health food scene, with plenty of vegetarian restaurants and organic food markets. Stop by spiritual jewellery stores and herb sellers before browsing galleries and print shops.

Explore side streets to see displays of graffiti that transform Fitzroy's blank walls into canvases. Visit the area in November to see a range of comedy acts, artistic displays and musical performance at the Fringe Festival.

For a change of pace, walk to the Fitzroy Gardens and Conservatory. Wander verdant lawns, delight in a model Tudor Village or marvel at the carved trunk of the Fairy Tree. At night, join youthful crowds in Brunswick Street's pubs and craft beer breweries.

Get into Fitzroy by frequent trams or bus routes. The suburb is easily navigated on foot.