I loved almost everything about this beautiful hotel: great location by the Old Town, close to the tram, beautiful rehab of an ornate 19th- century bank building, friendly employees. The “almost” has to do with the fact that when I sent a shirt out for laundering, it did not come back in the promised 12 hours, and then it did not come back until 54 hours. Two and a half days! And the staff did not seem to be on top of the situation enough to rectify it quickly. What if I was going to be checking out the following day? What if I need mes that shirt for a special event the following night? The staff at least did not charge me the laundry fee, and they offered apologies, but nothing more. Not a free breakfast, not a free drink in the bar, not one night off of my total seven-night stay; nothing. This is a Relais et Châteaux property, for heaven’s sake. A Best Western would have offered more. So that was the one blot on my otherwise lovely stay.